Visiting Angoulême means looking out for comic strip characters around street corners, strolling along the ramparts and heading down to the River Charente below. It’s a compact city we love coming back to, as much for a wander as to see our loved ones.
Matthieu is from Angoulême and his family still lives there. As for me, I studied at the IUT (university institute of technology) there for two years. We regularly spend weekends and holidays there with our family and friends. After our ten months travelling around Europe in a motorhome, we even spent part of the summer there to take the time to rediscover the city.
Wondering what to do in Angoulême in one day? We’ve put together our ten must-sees, our favourite places and a walking itinerary with a map. Everything you need to choose what to visit and explore the city with our local tips. Let us show you around!
Time needed
1 day
The city centre in the morning, comic strips and the Charente in the afternoon.
Not to be missed
Murals
The ramparts, the old town and the comic strip museum round off your visit.
Sightseeing budget
Free + museum admission
Free walks; standard admission to the comic strip museum is €10.
Getting around
On foot
The plateau overlooks the Charente: expect an uphill walk on the way back.
Why visit Angoulême?
There’s more to Angoulême than its comic strip festival. Its murals, narrow streets and panoramic views from the ramparts can be enjoyed all year round. Our itinerary lets you explore both the historic centre and the banks of the Charente in a single day.
If it rains, the comic strip museum is a great fallback option. And when it’s time for a tasty break, there’s also pineau, cognac, truffles, melon in season and the Marguerite en chocolat d’Angoulême, which you can try at Duceau on Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. This is no time to start a diet!
Itinerary, visiting days, tickets and getting there: everything you need to plan your day.
- Morning (plateau): the monuments, ramparts and main murals are clustered in the historic centre, which is easy to explore on foot. Allow around 2 hours for our 2 km circular walk.
- Lunchtime (centre): have lunch at a restaurant before heading down to the Charente. For a picnic, pick up supplies at Les Halles during the morning.
- Afternoon (Charente): walk around 1 km from the centre to the Hugo-Pratt footbridge, then spend 2 hours at the Comics Museum. Round off your visit with the quays and Corto Maltese.
- Nature option: add around 1 hour on Île Marquet, or take a short break on the quays before catching your train.
- Mondays: the Comics Museum and Les Halles are closed. If the museum is a priority, plan your visit for another day; otherwise, stick to the centre, murals and quays.
- Les Halles: open mornings from Tuesday to Sunday; plan this stop before lunch.
- Île Marquet: free access from 1 April to 15 December. Outside this period, stick to the quays.
- No ticket needed: the ramparts, murals, cathedral entry and walks along the quays; Île Marquet is also free during its opening season.
- Comics Museum: €10 standard admission, €6 reduced admission. Free for under-18s all year round and on the first Sunday of the month, except in July and August.
- Cathedral treasury: book a guided tour, with a separate ticket from cathedral entry: €8 standard admission, lasting around 1 hour 15 minutes. Ages 7 and over; 39 steps across two floors.
- From the station: allow 15 to 20 minutes to walk to the plateau, and bear in mind the uphill climb if you have a pushchair or luggage.
- By car: park on the plateau to start in the centre, or use the free car park at the Comics Museum, 2 rue des Abras, to start near the river. If you choose the latter, you will need to walk uphill to the old town.
- Staying overnight: staying on the plateau puts you within walking distance of the morning sights and restaurants for the evening. An apartment we’ve tried: Résidence Austerlitz.
What to do in Angoulême: our top 10 things to see and do
1. Go mural hunting
Angoulême is an open-air museum that’s free and great fun to explore as a family! Comic-book characters and worlds fill the façades, sometimes on an impressive scale. Several must-see murals are on the plateau, the upper part of the town.
To start with, we recommend a short route of around 2 km, using the mural map available at the tourist office or our itinerary below. Along the way, you can look out for Lucky Luke and the Daltons, Le Baron noir, Gaston and Prunelle.
On our walks, we used the Murs BD Angoulême app. We thought it was really well designed: even though we know the town well, its interactive map helped us find our way around and learn more about the artworks. We also went for a walk after dark to see the projected mural.
Our two favourites: ‘Mémoires du XXe Ciel’, in Place Saint-André, based on Yslaire’s work. Opposite the wall, look up for the angel reflected in the mural. And of course, ‘La Fille des remparts’, by Max Cabanes, a trompe-l’œil that we think is particularly effective. Come and see for yourself!
To explore further, our interactive map of Angoulême’s murals brings together 32 murals. Those mentioned in this article are shown in red, and the others in green. Click on a marker to see the mural, read about it and open directions in Google Maps. The full route starts at the station and covers around 17.5 km: for our day in the town centre, follow the itinerary further down instead.
A route from the station taking in 32 murals
32 murals · 17.5 km · Around 4 hours 15 minutes’ walking
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2. Walk around the ramparts and enjoy the views
The town stands on a plateau, protected by ramparts since antiquity. Rebuilt and extended in the Middle Ages, they now offer a tree-lined walk with lovely views over the neighbourhoods below and the Charente valley. In short, it’s a walk not to be missed.
Here are the viewpoints we recommend:
- Beyond Place Turenne, near 23 Rempart de Beaulieu: look out over the Charente, the Comics Museum and the statue of Corto Maltese on the Hugo-Pratt footbridge. It was also from the ramparts that General Resnier de Goué attempted to fly with homemade wings in 1801.
- At 6 Boulevard Pasteur: look out for the mural ‘La Fille des remparts’.
- Near the statue of Carnot: enjoy another panoramic view over the rooftops and towards Angoulême’s golf course.
If you like classic cars, the Circuit des Remparts also brings the town centre to life in September with races and gatherings. Check the dates for the year you’re interested in before planning your stay.
3. Admire Saint-Pierre Cathedral
We think this is the most beautiful cathedral in Charente! This 12th-century Romanesque building is recognisable by its sculpted façade. It was restored in the 19th century by Paul Abadie, the architect of the Sacré-Cœur in Paris, and its façade was restored again in the 21st century.
The interior is free to enter. The advertised opening hours are 9 am to 6 pm, closing at 5 pm in winter. As with any place of worship, visits must not disturb services.
Right next door is Saint-Paul school, where François Mitterrand was a pupil. A little fact to remember as you stroll past!
The guided tour of the cathedral treasury offers something extra to discover, separate from admission to the cathedral itself. Allow around 1 hour 15 minutes, and booking is recommended. The full price is €8, with a reduced rate of €6 and free admission for under-18s visiting with their family. Meet 15 minutes beforehand in the entrance hall of the Angoulême Museum, behind the cathedral. You cannot leave the tour before it finishes. It involves 39 steps over two floors and is suitable for ages 7 and over. It’s therefore better suited to an itinerary that gives you time to stop and explore than to a quick visit to the centre.
4. Wander through the lanes of the old town
Once you’re up on the plateau, take time to explore the historic centre, with its little streets and squares. We particularly like the lanes around Rue des Trois-Notre-Dame, with their bars and restaurants.
- Les Halles: the covered market welcomes you on Tuesday to Sunday mornings. Come before lunch to find the fruit, vegetable, fish, meat and cheese stalls. There are places to eat on site too: we recommend Le Triangle des Halles and its excellent burger.
- The streets around Rue des Trois-Notre-Dame: a pleasant area for a wander before choosing somewhere with outdoor seating when it’s time to eat.
- The town hall: it stands on the site of the former castle of the Counts of Angoulême. The Lusignan keep and the Valois tower are reminders of this history.
Look out for the speech-bubble-shaped street signs too: in Angoulême, comics find their way into even these little details!
5. Visit the Comics Museum
The Comics Museum occupies former wine warehouses on the banks of the Charente. We really like this large, renovated industrial building. We’ve been several times, as Matthieu is a comics fan and the temporary exhibitions keep tempting us back.
The permanent exhibition is currently being redesigned, with reopening announced for late 2027. The museum remains open with exhibitions, including ‘Trésors des collections’, where you can see original comic art. So don’t expect to find exactly the same chronological displays we saw on our first visits.
We recommend allowing around 2 hours to enjoy it at a relaxed pace. On our visits, we felt there could have been more interactive activities for younger children, but the reading corners offered somewhere to take a break and were often full of children.
Even if you don’t visit the galleries, we recommend coming to see the building and crossing the Hugo-Pratt footbridge, also known as the Magelis footbridge. A bronze statue of Corto Maltese awaits you there, gazing up at the sky.
The museum is on quai de la Charente, in the lower town. If you’re walking from the plateau, head for the footbridge; if you’re driving, a free car park is signposted at 2 rue des Abras. The Vaisseau Mœbius, which houses the library among other facilities, is at 121 rue de Bordeaux, on the other side of the river.
Tickets cost €10 at the full rate or €6 at the reduced rate. Admission is free for under-18s all year round. It is also free for everyone on the first Sunday of the month, except in July and August. The museum is closed on Mondays; check opening times and current exhibitions on the official website to plan your visit.
6. Enjoy the sunset near the golf course
Angoulême’s golf club has an 18-hole course with lovely views of the plateau. But for our sunset stop, we stay outside the course, by the crosses at Calvaire.
You can park opposite Domaine Champ Fleuri, in the Calvaire Père le Bideau car park, then settle down on the grass to watch the evening light over Angoulême.
Our tip: pack a picnic so you can enjoy the view and linger a little longer. This viewpoint rounds off the day nicely, but it is away from the route around the centre, so don’t feel you have to squeeze it in if you already have a train to catch.
7. Explore the Charente by boat or canoe
For a different way to explore the tree-lined banks of the Charente, you can take a 1-hour 30-minute cruise with commentary aboard the Reine Margot. The boat follows the old towpaths and passes through locks, with commentary about the river and the history of the surrounding area.
We always enjoy sitting back and watching the scenery as we glide along the water. Sailings for individuals and families mainly run in summer, from June to August, except on Mondays, depending on the operator’s schedule. Departures are from boulevard Besson-Bey in Angoulême: be sure to check your sailing time before planning your day around this outing.
You can also hire a boat that doesn’t require a licence or opt for a canoe or pedalo, depending on what’s available on your dates. It’s a way to explore at your own pace. If you only have one day, we recommend choosing between the cruise and a long museum visit rather than trying to fit everything in.
8. Soak up the atmosphere of comic book events
The festival has done a great deal to put Angoulême on the map. When we visited, we discovered a city brought to life by exhibitions, talks and signing sessions, along with workshops, shows and community groups. The signing sessions can involve a very, very long wait!
When we were students at the IUT in Angoulême, we actually ran a stand for an association to promote oral health and raise funds. It was a brilliant experience: four intense days, with our stand busy throughout!
Planning a trip around the festival: the official 2026 edition was cancelled. A new event is being planned for 2027. Wait until the dates and ticketing arrangements are confirmed before planning a trip solely around this event.
This long-running event celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2023. We have very fond memories of taking part during our years at the IUT and recommend it to fans of bandes dessinées, comics and manga. As soon as the dates for the next edition are confirmed, book your accommodation in Angoulême well in advance: where you stay makes a big difference when it comes to enjoying the events in the town centre.
9. Get some fresh air on Île Marquet
We’re always surprised to find this little pocket of nature so close to the town centre and the comics museum. You can reach Île Marquet via the Magelis footbridge, near the statue of Corto Maltese. It makes a lovely extension to a walk along the quays.
Set in a part of the valley designated as a Natura 2000 site, the island still feels fairly wild. You sometimes have to watch your step to avoid brambles or nettles. This green oasis was a welcome escape for us during heatwaves.
Allow about 1 hour to follow the trail around the island: from the lock, walk through the bamboo forest and the former allotments, then explore the opposite bank. Information boards tell you more about the history of the place.
Access is free during the advertised opening period, from 1 April to 15 December. Treat this walk as an optional end to the day, especially if you’re travelling with young children or need to head back up to the plateau.
Swimming in the Charente is prohibited within the municipal boundaries of Angoulême, including near Île Marquet and the lock. We recommend this spot for a walk. The town council reiterates that swimming is prohibited.
10. Bring home a pair of charentaises
We couldn’t round off this selection without mentioning the charentaise, the region’s iconic slipper, made using the stitch-and-turn technique. A slightly different souvenir to tuck into your luggage!
To discover this craft, head to L’Atelier Charentaises in La Rochefoucauld-en-Angoumois. This is a trip into the surrounding area that you can combine with the château, rather than a stop on the walking route through Angoulême.
Tours are offered on Monday afternoons and Friday mornings, except during the annual closure in August. Confirm the time of your tour before setting off, particularly on Monday afternoons.
Our itinerary for exploring Angoulême on foot in 1 day
Spend the morning on the plateau and the afternoon beside the Charente. The map below shows the key stops on our route through the town centre.
One day
From the plateau to the banks of the Charente
A loop of around 2 km in the morning, then a walk down to the museum and an optional stroll on Île Marquet.
From the cathedral to the town hall
Start at Saint-Pierre Cathedral (A), then follow the ramparts to the Carnot statue (B). Head to place New York (C), take a look at the theatre on your right, then explore the town hall (D).
From comic characters to the lanes of the town centre
Walk down rue Hergé (E), looking out for ‘Natacha et le P’tit bout d’chique’ and the statue of Hergé. Head along rue d’Aguesseau to ‘La Fille des remparts’ (F), then on to Les Halles covered market (G), open in the mornings from Tuesday to Sunday. Make your way through the lanes of the old town (H), pass ‘Mémoires du XXe Ciel’ (I) and finish with Titeuf (J). Allow around 2 hours for this 2 km walk, or longer if you want to linger.
Lunch on the plateau
Settle in at one of the restaurants in the centre. You'll find our recommendations below. If you'd prefer a picnic, pick up supplies at Les Halles during the morning.
Head down to the Charente and the comics museum
Head to the Hugo-Pratt footbridge via the gardens below the ramparts. Expect a walk of around 1 km from the centre, depending on where you start. Cross the footbridge, find Corto Maltese and allow around 2 hours for the comics museum. On Mondays, take a stroll along the quays instead, or choose another day if you'd like to visit the museum.
Île Marquet, if you still feel like walking
Allow around 1 extra hour to walk around the island during its opening season. Alternatively, simply enjoy a short break by the river. Save some energy for the climb back up to the plateau or the journey to the station.
Our day: from the plateau to the banks of the Charente
13 stops · Around 3.1 km, excluding the walk around the island
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Visiting Angoulême as a family
For a fun way to explore the centre, we recommend Tèrra Aventura. Since July 2026, the ‘Zegraff en manque d’inspi’ route has replaced the former ‘Zegraff fait son Comics Trip!’. This free treasure hunt is a great family activity, but we think it’s just as much fun without children!
How does Tèrra Aventura work? The app offers routes across Nouvelle-Aquitaine. You track your location on the map and solve riddles to move from one stop to the next. We love the idea: it guides us as we explore towns and cities, and we learn plenty about history, architecture and food along the way, all while having fun.
The new Angoulême route starts on the station forecourt. Tourist information gives a distance of around 3 km, taking 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes, depending on your pace and stops. We suggest choosing it instead of our morning walk, rather than doing both routes. With little ones in tow, the murals in the centre and a visit to the museum can easily fill the day.
How do you get to Angoulême and get around?
The train is a good option if you’re coming to explore the city: once you arrive, you can spend most of the day getting around on foot. From the station, allow around 15 to 20 minutes to reach the plateau, depending on your destination. The walk is uphill, which is worth bearing in mind if you have a pushchair or luggage.
- From Paris-Montparnasse: from around 1 hour 45 minutes on the fastest services.
- From Poitiers: around 40 minutes by high-speed train; longer on TER regional services.
- From Bordeaux-Saint-Jean: around 40 minutes on the fastest trains.
You can also travel by rideshare, for example with BlaBlaCar, or by coach, depending on the services available. A car is particularly useful if you want to explore the villages around Angoulême; you can hire one at the station.
If you’re driving, choose where to park based on where you plan to start: on the plateau for the historic centre, or at the comics museum car park, 2 rue des Abras, to start beside the Charente. The latter is free, but you’ll need to walk back uphill if you want to reach the old town on foot.
Where to stay in Angoulême
We also recommend AppartsHôtel Villa Côté Plateau, set in a former private mansion that has been tastefully renovated. We recommend these apartments for their comfort and location near the town hall: you can explore the historic centre on foot.
Choose a studio or an apartment if you want to cook, as the property also offers a room without cooking facilities. This detail matters when comparing accommodation options that genuinely meet the same needs.
If you’re coming for a major event, we recommend booking your accommodation as soon as the dates are confirmed. Domaine Champ Fleuri, mentioned above, offers a different atmosphere in a peaceful setting away from the plateau.
Where to eat and have a drink in Angoulême?
Here are the places we like to recommend for a break in the centre:
- Siam Gourmet, 12 bis rue des Trois-Notre-Dame: a Thai restaurant we like for its noodle dishes, curries and good value for money, on a pleasant little street in the centre.
- La Cour, 22 rue de la Cloche-Verte: fresh, well-prepared food served in a beautiful garden. They also offer Sunday brunch.
- À la Cantonaise, 19 rue des Trois-Notre-Dame: a very good Chinese restaurant where we enjoy the dishes made with fresh ingredients, from starters through to dessert.
- Le Chat Noir and Blues Rock Café, rue de Genève: two of our go-to places for a drink on a terrace.
Les Sources de Fontbelle was also among our recommendations for its refined cuisine and beautiful setting. The restaurant is now closed, so it is no longer an option when booking a meal.
What is there to do around Angoulême?
If you have a second day or a long weekend, we recommend focusing on one area rather than making lots of separate journeys. The times below are approximate driving times from Angoulême..
- Saint-Simon and Bassac, around 30 minutes: explore Saint-Simon, a village with a history of river barges, then visit Saint-Étienne de Bassac abbey. If you fancy extending your trip as a couple, we loved Tiny House La Petite Garenne in Graves-Saint-Amant: we really enjoyed the peaceful setting, the beautiful tiny house and its Nordic hot tub.
- La Rochefoucauld, around 30 minutes: visit the château, whose keep dates back to the 11th century and which was extensively remodelled during the Renaissance. You can combine this outing with learning about charentaises, the traditional local slippers.
- Cognac, around 45 minutes: discover the vineyards, cognac houses and stages of distillation. A tour with a tasting is a good choice if you would like a professional to explain how cognac is made.
- Aubeterre-sur-Dronne, around 50 minutes: wander around this village, listed among Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, then discover its impressive underground church of Saint-Jean.
- Confolens, around 55 minutes: a lovely stop for its half-timbered houses, keep and medieval Pont Vieux.
- Périgueux, around 1 hour 15 minutes: take a look at our tips for visiting Périgueux, its markets, Saint-Front Cathedral and Gallo-Roman remains. Set aside a full day for this trip.
We hope you have a wonderful stay in Angoulême! Feel free to leave us a little message below, ask any questions or find us on Instagram. And if you are heading on to the Dordogne, our Périgueux guide will help you plan the next part of your trip.
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